I would like to say drill a hole on a drill press then put the plate on my mill and finish the hole to a taper.
Milling the entire hole would take me a long time, creating sloped sides is something I can do.
I have an idea how but thought I should ask.
David
drilling operation ….if you do not have a tool changer machine or can not pause for a tool change (I can not) then without changing your part zero load another program with your milling tool to finish the sloped sides.
I thought I could do that but was concerned that it would assume the center material was still there. When I normally do one operation at a time I assume it is aware that the excess has been removed.
Thank you for the reply, I will try in foam first!
David
Yes depending on the operation…. so it takes a little more time….unless you are in production it should not matter…if you are a professional doing production runs probably you should invest in professional software and machines. Were it a production run I would buy a special taper ream.
I think I have it figured out. In effect I am creating a split tapered bushing. I only need to make two, but they are odd sizes and I wish to use aluminum. I need to machine both the inside of the taper and the outside to match. One for a 1 inch shaft the other for 60mm shaft. I do wish my mill was more substantial but I never thought I would be doing anything other than softwood.
David
Foam was great.
Next dumb question….
Is it possible to lost foam cast a shape, pretend the inside of a bowl and cast this object slightly too thick. After machining the foam go back into the design and use correct final dimensions. If I set all the steps in Kiri as though I were starting with a solid block and roughing down, leaving a tolerance to finish. Do you think it is possible to then simply finish down to final surface by selecting and cutting only the last step?
I hope that is not too confusing. If this can work is would eliminate incredible amounts of bulk removal.
David
It is not clear how you are roughing ….but in your CAD model you can make it any way you want and then pick the operation to finish as your CAD model is….I have heard of “lost wax” but not “lost foam” but perhaps that is possible…..I find it very interesting in the casting field that they sell 3D printer material in “lost wax” material….3D print your object and cast it using the lost wax method.
Evening Meddesign,
Lost foam actually works quite well. After machining out your design in extruded polystyrene you sprue it up, coat it in a layer of thinned drywall mud. After the mud is dry surround it with sand compacted with a vibrator and pour molten aluminum in. Vents not needed, gasses escape through the coating and sand. Does quite a good job. The drywall mud is burnt off as well. No sand stuck in or on the aluminum. This technique does not work for lost wax or for something with a much higher melting temp. The coating has no real strength the way proper lost wax/investment casting does.
What I am wanting to do is mill my model slightly oversize from foam, cast that in aluminum, swap the aluminum back into the mill and cut to finish dimensions. By doing this I hope to avoid all the bulk removal of aluminum that would be necessary starting from a square block.
The rough operations has a provision for “leave stock”….make your cad model to size and “leave stock” in the rough operation for the foam…and then a second operation cut to size for the aluminum….you might need reference holes/pins or some way to position the aluminum part in the same place as you had the foam part.
Excellent idea. I was thinking of ways to index the aluminum when I swap it in. My part is actually an oversized taper lock, everything is symmetrical round ways. I think a centering post would work fine.
I may use a lathe to finish up. Try one of each, why not.
dc
you must be retired like me
I am, not by choice and one of the best things ever happened.
Mill is cutting as we type.